Lucy Mallows

©LucyMallows2009

Between the lines (published in BSpirit! Brussels Airlines Inflight magazine)

The world’s longest tramline, De Kusttram, runs the length of the surreal Belgian coast. Lucy Mallows jumps onboard

Like waffles and the Manneken Pis, De Kusttram (‘the coast tram’) is a unique Belgian speciality. It follows the entire length of the Belgian Riviera, from the dunes of Knokke near the Dutch border to Plopsaland de Panne theme park on the frontier with France. Belgium is the only country whose entire coastline can be travelled in one 143-minute tram ride.

The tram route is divided into 15 zones and stops at 70 places with names ranging from the outlandish – Plopsaland, Krokodiel and Manitoba – to the prosaic – Station, Casino and Park. Occasionally, the track meanders away from the sea, but the view is never dull, as the tram sneaks past Knokke’s manicured back gardens, skirts Ostend’s and Blankenberge’s busy ports, glides through sand dunes, rattles along backstreets and sails majestically through an enchanted forest.

As soon as the sun appears, canny Belgians leave their cars behind and take the train to Knokke or De Panne at either end, or Ostend in the middle. “I always recommend visitors get the train to Knokke, then continue by tram to whichever resort they feel in the mood for,” says Lieve Van Diest, 48, a secretary from Ghent. “They remember this when sitting in a three-hour jam on the motorway back to Brussels!”

Knokke is separated from the Netherlands by the Het Zwin nature reserve. The town itself is home to designer stores and galleries, which lure Belgium’s beautiful people to shop, dine or play golf. The Titanic Tearoom (14 Van Bunnenplein, tel. (0)50 623767) serves delicious moules and fish dishes, while those appropriately clothed can visit the Casino (509 Zeedijk-Alberstrand) to see frescoes by Keith Haring, Paul Delvaux and René Magritte. Every three years, the coast’s artistic heritage is celebrated with the Beaufort03 Festival (beaufort03. be). Until October this year, amazing displays of installation art can be found at communities all along the coast.

Just 20 minutes along the line is Blankenberge, where cafés line the promenade, including the Buddha bar, where hip young things lounge on giant black cushions, sipping mojitos. There are ‘strands’ (private beaches), old-fashioned seaside attractions and a wood-slatted velodrome.

De Haan, 15 minutes further west, has a quite different ambience. It’s a step back in time to a more elegant age before high-rise blocks obliterated the sea views of belle époque buildings by the beaches. American lawyer David Fink, 39, based in Brussels, loves to escape here. “My wife and I travel by train and tram,” he says. “We can reach De Haan in less than two hours. It’s my favourite resort, with its half-timbered houses and a wooden boardwalk.”

Ostend is a bustling port with miles of sandy beaches and a vast range of events, particularly in the summer when the constant breeze draws windsurfers and kite-flyers. The harbour is ringed by fritkots (chip shops) and dried fish stalls, and the daily fish market has a wonderful atmosphere. Bistro Beethoven (Sint-Petrus en Paulusplein, tel. (0)59 514676) is popular with the locals and has a menu of fish specialities.



The first section of De Kusttram was opened between Ostend and Nieuwpoort in 1885 and is one of the few inter-urban tramways in the world to remain in operation. Nieuwpoort is home to the largest marina in northern Europe, with 2,000 mooring spaces. Brussels accountant Susanna Gérard, 37, says: “Recently, I bought a boat and keep it here. The tram is a great way to get here if I don’t feel like driving.”

Ten minutes beyond Nieuwpoort, Oostduinkerke is the only place in the world where, in September, men still fish on horseback for shrimp, pulling heavy dragnets through the surf.



Nearing the end of the line, De Panne is blessed with the widest beach on the Belgian coast and is popular with sand-yacht enthusiasts. It has a significant place in Belgian history, as it was here that Leopold I of Belgium first set foot in his kingdom on 17 July 1831. A great way to finish your trip is with a meal at Imperial (9 Leopold I Esplanade, tel. (0)58 414228), where you can forage your way through lobster, asparagus, strawberries and all manner of treats before heading to the final stop on the tram line, Plopsaland.

Hidden from urban De Panne by an enchanted forest, Plopsaland (plopsaland.be), is a bizarre theme park where Kabouter Plop (Plop the gnome) lives in a giant toadstool. Children love the fairground rides and gentle teasing from Plop and his gnome cohorts.

Way to go
De Kusttram links up with the Belgian national railway network at Knokke, De Panne, Ostend and Blankenberge.

Services to these destinations run hourly from Brussels Midi, Central and Nord stations and take 80-110 minutes.

A weekend return ticket costs €15,40 (Brussels to Ostend) or €18,50 (Brussels to De Panne), the same price as a normal single ticket.

See b-rail.be for details.

On the tram

De Kusttram tickets can be bought from the driver or at a discount from the Lijnwinkel (line shop). A short ride (one to two zones) costs €1,20 at the Lijnwinkel/€1,60 onboard. A long ride (three or more zones, or the entire length) costs €2/€2,70.

A day pass giving unlimited travel (hop on, hop off) costs €5/€6. Trams run every 10 minutes in summer and every 20 minutes in winter, from 5.02am to 00.41am.

See dekusttram. be for details.

Stop and sleep

While you can travel the length of the tramline in one day, why not make a weekend of it by spending a night or two in the coast’s key resorts. Here are some recommended places to stay.

Knokke Hotel Adagio (12 Van Bunnenlaan, tel. (0)50 624844, hoteladagio.be, double rooms from €130 in high season) offers three-star comfort and convenience in the heart of the resort.

Ostend Hotel Royal Astrid (1 Wellingtonstraat, tel. (0)59 339696, royalastrid.com, double rooms from €60,10 per person) is a friendly three-star establishment just 50m from the beach.

De Panne Hotel Donny (17 Donnylaan, tel. (0)58 421000, hoteldonny.com, double rooms from €100 in the high season) is a comfortable bed and breakfast.

Labels: Belgian, Belgium, coast, EU, Europe, Ostend, seaside, travel